How To Build A Mini Ramp with Billy Rohan


BILL ROHAN: Hey,
what’s up guys? My name is Billy Rohan, and
we’re here to show you today how to build a mini ramp. And we’re going to be building
one that’s 4 feet high and 12 feet wide. You want to have a good hammer
to start out with. You can find all these tools
at Home Depot or Lowes. An impact drill is going to be
key, especially if you’re drilling the ramps together. You’re also going to want to
have a jigsaw for cutting the transitions. Also, very important is to
have your Skilsaw because you’re going to cut a lot of
2x4s when you’re building a mini ramp, so you definitely
are going to need one of these. Also very key is
a tape measure. You want to have a good
assortment of drill bits. This is a level. You want to be on the level
when you’re building, so that’s really important. What this is called
is a chalk line. And the chalk line is used so
that when you put your 2x4s in later in the building process
you’ll be able to see where they are under the plywood. It’s good to have a pretty
heavy duty pencil. I got this one from Team Pain. But you’re going to be writing
on wood, so a standard pencil isn’t good. This is a carpenters pencil. Next up, your actual
wood supplies. So whether you’re building
a 12-foot-wide ramp or a 24-foot-wide ramp, you’re
generally going to use plywood and 2x4s for your most
standard ramps. Our ramp we’re going to build
in an 8-foot section and a 4-foot section and combine
the two later. So right here we had to measure
the length of the 2x4s along with the transitions. So it’s really important that
your 2×4 goes to the transition, and the distance
between the two is 8 feet or 4 feet, depending on
the sections that you’re going to build. A lot of people, they’ll use
string and a pencil and try to run it from one end to the other
and come up with a nice circumference, but that’s
actually not the best way to do it. I’m going to introduce
you to Curtis here. Curtis is getting ready to build
a transition right now. CURTIS RAPP: On this particular
ramp, we’re going to do a 7-foot transition. So put one screw in the
middle at 7 feet. So this whole 2×4 is going
to pivot at that point. Drill a hole, the pencil’s going
to fit right in there. And so you started out at 3
and 1/2 inches, that’s the height of the 2×4 that’s going
to be at the bottom. Mark it out, get your pencil
in there, and then you just drag it along. It just pivots nice
and perfect, yeah. You’ve got a perfect tranny. BILL ROHAN: There you go. It’s about to drop. To save yourself some money,
just flip it on to the other side and then you would
trace over it. So the next step in building a
ramp, you’re going to want to mark the transitions. The standard is usually every
8 inches, but since we’re doing this as a temporary ramp,
we’re going to do it every foot. So you’re going to start out
with the bottom one. You want to make sure that
these are level. When you go to put in, that
this is flush with this. Anytime you’re going to put in
a 2×4 into plywood, you want at least two screws. Most people use three when
they’re building a ramp, especially if it’s going
to be more permanent. So we’re going to go ahead and
use three in this, even though it’s temporary. You always want to start with
your front and back so that the rest of the 2x4s
fit in well. Now, this is where the lines
come in that we drew. The reason that we drew those
lines is so that we don’t have to measure it every single time
we put in a new support. Since we’re going every foot
instead of every 8 inches, it’s good to use two 2x4s every
other one so that way you have extra support. All right, so since the ramp
we’re building is 12 feet wide, we’re building
two sections. Our section that we just worked
on is 8 feet wide, this section’s 4 feet– 4 plus 8 is 12. So this is the flat bottom. It’s really a very basic
bit of carpentry. You take a 2×4 on either side,
you square it out to a box so you’d have one, two, three,
and then four. In this ramp we’re going
to use 8 feet of flat. Some ramps are smaller flat
if they are tighter. It depends how you like it. If you like it with a lot of
flat, like we do, it gives you more time for setting up. So we’re going to have 8 foot
of flat on this ramp. So when you start your flat
bottom, you’re going to start with a rectangle. It’s going to be 4 feet long
here, and 93 inches here. On your middle section your 2x4s
are going to be 45 inches long, so they’re different sized
2x4s than the outside. And you want these 2x4s
to be every 8 inches. This is the coping. This is the most essential
part of the mini ramp. This is a 24-foot piece
of coping, and our ramp’s 12 feet wide. So we’re going to cut the coping
in half and use one on each side of the ramp. Whenever you’re going to cut
coping, you have to have a metal bit for your saw. You can’t use the same one as
the wood or it will destroy the saw and the bit. You always want to make sure
also that your coping is 2 inches at least. You don’t want anything
smaller than 2 inches. It’s a really good size for your
trucks to lock into for smith grinds and stuff
like that. CURTIS RAPP: All right,
so this is our deck. The deck is just what you’re
going to stand on, and some people do 2 feet. I like 4 feet. You can get some
standing room. They’re not exactly the same
as the flat bottom. They’re a little smaller because
they’ve got to fit in between the templates. What you do is you make it 94
and 1/2 inches so it fits in-between the template
and can butt up right against the coping. There’s going to be 4 feet from
the coping, plywood will fit right on top. Put the studs every 16 inches. There’s going to be 3/4-inch
plywood on it. That’s it. BILL ROHAN: So there you go. We got the skeleton
ready to go. And we’re going to continue to
put the skin and the other layers on at the
next location. All right, so we got here to the
spot, and we’re having to build on a slope. So we have to build a false
floor first, and then once we’re done with that then we can
get started with the ramp. So it’ll be a little bit of a
mission, but it should take about an hour or two to
finish up, I hope. All right, so right now we’re
getting the other two transitions to connect it to
the flat bottom, and then we’ll be able to start
plying this ramp. It’s really important when
you’re getting to this part of building the mini ramp where you
connect the transitions to the flat bottom that
it’s all level. So you want to push it up. You guys can push this up. When you push it up, then you’re
going to screw in right there from the transition
to the flat bottom. You do about four of them in
there and you should be good. How these 2x4s made a transition
and a flat bottom, there’s a line that’s a perfect
guide for your plywood to match up with. And that’s when you
start using the 2-inch screws for shooting. Every sheet’s going to have
at least four screws– four screws on each
rim going across. When you put your transition
first layer up to the flat bottom layer, you
can stand on it. And you always want to work from
the bottom up so that it doesn’t get warped
in the middle. So you just start with your
first 2×4, second 2×4, third on up so that it bends with the
wood rather than starting on the top and going down. You want to basically have
a screw at least every foot on your ply. So now we’re moving into our
second layer of ply. A lot of people try to get away
with using less wood, but it’s good to use a 1/2-inch
sheet of ply, and then another 1/2-inch sheet of ply. And then your third layer,
whether it’s Masonite Indoors, or Ramp Armor, or
whatever it is. But it’s good to have three
layers so that you don’t break through and then
hurt yourself. So you want to start on the
flat bottom and then work your way up. Our top piece here is going to
16 inches because we put our center piece 24 inches
on either side. So on our second layer we used
a sheet of plywood in the exact middle of the ramp. You don’t want it to follow
seam-over-seam. And so you could layer it
seam-over-seam which a lot of people do, but it’s not going
to be as solid of a ramp. So if you change the structure
of the plys so that they don’t go over each other, you’re
going to have a much stronger ramp. So this is the platform
we built yesterday. We just slid it in, make sure
it’s flush with your transition, and then give it a
couple of screws in there. You want to make sure that it’s
level as well so that your platform isn’t sitting
at an angle. And then once you get it locked
to the transition, you put a couple 2x4s in and then
screw those into the corners so that it’s supported well. When you go to put your screw in
for the coping, you want to have a longer drill bit. Usually about 6 inches
will be good. So the reason you put a smaller
screw there– that’s a 3/8 size bit– is so that the screw head
doesn’t go through as well. All right, so it’s a total of
eight holes that you have to drill into the coping. We do one every three feet, so
we do four holes that you actually are putting
the screws into. The other four holes are
countersinked so that the screw heads go through
the coping. All right, so we’re almost
finished with our second layer, and then we’re going to
move on to our third layer which is the Ramp Armor. Ramp Armor is a composite
material. It’s super strong and also very
smooth, so it’s perfect. It’s made for skate ramps. On this one I like to start at
the top with it right up to the coping because it’s easy
for it to slide down. But if it’s your third
layer, it’s usually going to be all right. All right, so these guys are
finishing up the deck. You want 3/4-inch ply when
you’re decking the ramp, because you don’t want
to fall through it. You’re going to have all you and
your friends standing on it, so it’s good to get
real thick plywood. Even 1 inch thick is fine for
the deck because you’re not bending it. So this is the finished
product. We got the ramp done and
we ended up having it done a day early. So we’re all really
excited about it. Now the best part is
we get to skate it. Also check with your neighbors
and make sure you have an epic party to celebrate
your new ramp. MALE SPEAKER: Is
that all right? MALE SPEAKER: It looks good. MALE SPEAKER: Sweet. Well done. MALE SPEAKER: I’m psyched. I’m so psyched, dude.

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Comments

  1. I have lost count of how many ramps, rails, blocks, fun box etc. God Bless These Streets! Turn off your shit and go outside kids!

  2. I remember when Billy came to Cali from I think Colorado (?) But not sure but we both rode for zorlac. I know that by the end of the trip to Cali he thought that I was legitimately insane …Lol what's up Billy Leonard C

  3. My son just built his, but purchasing masonite is hell. No stores like home depot or lowes carry this. It seems you have to go to the skatelite web site etc. and order which is also expensive.

  4. Please donate this ramp to me as a community enhancement investment. I am certain that you could just write it off on your taxes as a charitable expense and hey…think of all the love that you would be giving to needy kids! ( Well…nothing wrong with having a dream, is there? ) Well done BTW. Peace.

  5. I swear…Am I the only one who needs a skate intervention. I seem to be going farther down the rabbit whole daily!! Skating is HIGHLY ADDICTIVE!!!

  6. Hi video maker,
    The thoughts I had while watching this video were really life changing. Timing IS everything. Glad I watched this video today 😀

    God I miss woodworking!

  7. Was that masonite you used at the end to cover the ramp? Because I want to build a half pipe and I'm just wondering what is the best to use for that!!

  8. I made my portable ramps back in the late 70s, It was a 7 foot radius 8' wide ramp set up against the back of my 69 Ford van with a 2' wide platform on the van roof…I used steel angle brackets and bolted to the 3/4 plywood sides…Used bracing in the back to keep the ramp from racking….

  9. I would increase the radius of the transition. 10-12 feet would be ideal. This ramp is probably unnecessarily difficult to skate with the tight transition that they used.

  10. I constructed some wooden quarter pipes and I don't understand why don't they do the deck and the ramp in one piece

  11. I’m thinking about making one in my back yard just because some days I don’t want to skate all the way to the skate park which is really far and I would rather practice where no one can see me

  12. shout out billy… knew your were the coolest when I first met you… under the ramps at that xgames bullshit at the wharf in New York.. Cardiel bs the whole pyramid… anyways next it's at Tampa w five foot high fs flips to disaster and fs noseslide to fakie up the wall… my man… u and Danny g. in my town… I had to run!! too good.. sorry

  13. sakura markers for under water welding are great for making on wood as well. you can get them in lots of fluro colours as well so are great if light is low as you can just use a black light to see whats going on.

  14. RAD vid. Fastest way to build a ramp is find a kit with every part cut to size and ready to slot and screws together. These are a very refined design, ramp kits form Four One Four Skateparks – http://www.fouronefour.co.uk/self-build/

  15. Why do one 8 ft. and one 4 ft. ? why not just do one 12 ft. ? Is it a stronger build that way? Easier to transport in a truck?

  16. I am currently waiting for my beer to chill in the freezer. While I am doing that. I am eating an obliterated burrito plate from the Taqueira on Harden Ave. This execution of craftsmanship is blowing me away. I have successfully added this to my bucket list of bucket items. Love from Hayward Ca.

  17. hell yeah man!… if your looking to start building i recommend a starter kit from makitta or Milwaukee or the like. i have burned out cheap tools so much, im sure it wound up costing wayyyy more. just spend the 4,5,6,7,8 hundred bucks and get tools that last 20 years. cheap tools are a huge waste of time and super frustrating. …. if you build it, they will skate!

  18. Hey VICE, no one that watches your channel has the wherewithal to actually build anything other than a cake.

  19. you had me the entire video and then you lost me around the point where you put the rail on o.o' how are you suppose to grind a rail with holes in the top of it???

  20. Same way we did it 30 years ago.Cept no impact drills then.And couldn't afford masonite.(Actually, got everything from construction sites.)Nice mini.

  21. This is an awesome video. Just wanted to point one thing out to new carpenters. This video shows them using drywall screws which are not strong enough for structural work (especially in shear, see 9:32). Great for securing the decking, but not for building the stick frame. For that you'd want to use actual structural screws or back them up with framing nails. Also, construction adhesive under the coping is a wonderful trick to make it durable! Loved the video!

  22. why do they use impact drill to screw wood together? Impact drill is for mechanics to screw or unscrew bolts not wood screws wtf?

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