“The Kent State University Museum: Celebrating 25 Years” Gallery Tour (Part 2)


continuing the chronological survey the
next most important dress is the navy blue silk charmeuse dress on the left
this is a dress attributed to Medellin Vionnet who was particularly well known
as the person who began to you really use the bias in high fashion to drape on
the bias many of the really fine cotchery is over the history of fashion
especially in the 20th century didn’t really sketch what they were going to
design but they draped it and Madelyn Vionnet used a half-scale figure on a
piano stool that turned around and she draped her ideas on this half sized
mannequin her garments then would slide over the body the bias has stretch its
the diagonal grain of the fabric if you remember that the warp is the lengthwise
grain and the weft is the crosswise grain the bias is the diagonal of those
there’s very little give or stretch in the warp or the weft but on the bias
there’s quite a bit of stretch and that allows the fabric to conform to the
curves of the body in the center of this view is addressed by Gilbert Adrian
Adrian is perhaps best known for the hollywood costumes that he did in the
1930s for MGM but he left MGM in 1941 and opened his own ready-to-wear retail
business he felt that what he’d done for some of the glamorous figures of the
Hollywood golden era he could do for the ordinary woman who bought his ready to
wear this black silk dress is draped in a very glamorous way very reminiscent of
some of the things that he did for Hollywood the pale ice blue dress on the
right is by yves salah wrong i don’t think there was anything more coveted
than the label yves on the wrong avenue Marceau in paris he was a marvelous
colorist and he understood what made a dress feel really
wonderful to wear his days suits were lined in silk charmeuse so when a woman
put the jacket on she felt absolutely elegant this is an evening dress from
the 1990s of all of the extraordinary couturier is in the 20th century and
there were a number of extraordinary and groundbreaking coteries cristóbal
Balenciaga is perhaps one of the most influential he always considered himself
a dressmaker he was one of the people that was part of what the French call
the haute couture this is a professional organization that classifies the nature
of the dress making business and the highest form of sewing or the Haute
Couture is the designation that’s controlled by the chambre Syndicale the
blue dress on the left in this view is a ballgown from the late 1950s early 1960s
it actually has four parts it has an underskirt it has an over a strapless
over dress and and skirt it has a belt and it has a little bolero jacket which
we didn’t put in the exhibition the strapless over dress could actually be
worn as a as a short evening dress if the if the lady wanted to otherwise you
have a very wonderful formal ballgown next to it is another Balenciaga evening
dress from the 1960s this one has the label
eisah which was the name of his Spanish house he was Spanish and he moved to
Paris where he could work under his own name
Balenciaga his Spanish house retained the name
eisah which was his mother’s name among the many changes in women’s garments in
the 20th century none was more shocking perhaps to those who believed in
appropriate apparel then the fact that a woman could wear pants as an evening
ensemble this was something that was really begun
by if Celeron was one of his great innovations it was based on the fact
that evening pajamas quote-unquote and at home things had come about in the
1930s Katharine Hepburn certainly had popularized slacks as casual wear and
Eve Soller on took it to the next level and made it evening wear
so by the time that this gray silk velvet ensemble was designed by Geoffrey
Beene a very important American designer evening pants for women were very much a
part of the 1970s next to the Geoffrey Beene ensemble is
addressed by Oscar de la Renta from 2006 I mentioned that Balenciaga was very
influential Oscar de la Renta had an internship at Balenciaga in Madrid
before he too went to Paris and worked with Castillo at the house of laughs and
so there are all kinds of relationships between mentors and younger designers
that follow through the history of fashion in the 20th century there’s
always a certain amount of fantasy in evening garments and evening capes and
cloaks are among the most fanciful the satin
cape that is in this view was designed by Jean Louie for Marlena Dietrich
probably to wear at the end of her career when she was doing cabaret
singing so that she could make an absolutely dramatic entrance and fling
off the Cape Shannon Rogers was one of the two founders of the museum with his
business partner Jerry Silverman Shannon had spent ten years in Hollywood and he
loved glamour but the Silverman line manufactured woman’s better dresses
Jerry Silverman in order to keep Shannon happy would allow him to do fantasy
dresses whenever he could it happened that he knew a number of celebrities and
he did design for a number of celebrities among them was Phyllis
George when she was Miss America and this dress was designed by Shannon
Rogers for Phyllis George when she gave her crown to Lori Lee Shaffer at the
very end of her reign it’s based on an 18th century silhouette so this dress
also has pan yeas just not as extensive as the one in the very first dress we
looked at 25 years ago when the Kent State University Museum opened its doors
for the first time to the public there was a splendid party called dazzled
dazzl one had raised funds for the museum’s reconstruction dazzle 2 opened
the museum and Bob Mackie provided the fashion show in that fashion show was
this rather extravagant white taffeta evening cape and after the show Bob
Mackie gave the cape to the brand-new Kent State University Museum
as you can see these dresses represent not only the history of fashion but also
the history of the collection major donors such as Martha sell horse
Helen Borowitz Bob Mackie Eva Soler on all joined Shannon Rogers and Jerry
Silverman who originally gave the museum 4,000 dresses a thousand pieces of
decorative art and 5,000 volumes for the library the collection now numbers very
close to 40,000 pieces you

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Comments

  1. 💖The YSL ice blue is DIVINE. Femininity encapsulated. I love the term “charmeuse”, it expresses the essence of glamour and sophistication .

  2. in may of 1970, after the neo-nazis shot four students at kent state university, i took part in my one and only peace march at northern illinois university. i think this video is abhorrent and, in a word, IRRELEVANT !

  3. This sounds like absolute shit to say, but I can draw up dress and outfit design ideas without an education in it whatsoever and they honestly look just as good or better than what these top designers create. I guess it’s all about knowing the right people. Now what I cannot do is make the ensembles myself.

  4. What a fascinating mini-course through 260 years of fashion history. For anyone who is interested in learning more, and isn't already familiar with her channel, I highly recommend fashion history professor Amanda Hallay's Ultimate Fashion History. She has a lecture series that she uploaded on the history of clothes all the way back to ancient times. She knows her stuff, and she has a great sense of humor to boot.

  5. Haute couture…… is pronounced without the freaking H …lmao….. not "hote cotoor"…… its pronounced like the word Oat!!!!!

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